Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Women at Work



One of the things I really admire about Eileen is her determination to keep photographing until she finds the right angle, lighting and composition for each shot. Just before leaving for Malawi, she fell and hurt her knee but convinced the doctor to let her come ahead anyway. So here she is on the Fourth of July on the floor of a room being used to examine pregnant women during the monthly mobile clinic in the isolated village of Emazwini—30-plus kilometers away over dusty tracks from Embangweni.

Of course, Eileen is not the only person hard at work in this photo. Joyce Ngoma (in the dark blue headscarf) examined about 25 pregnant women that afternoon, checking for signs of anemia, swelling in the lower extremities, palpating abdomens to determine the position of the fetus, etc. Florence Mwandira (in pink) is recording the results in a large health register.

You can see the brace on Eileen’s right knee and the chitenje she wore over her jeans. A chitenje is basically a length of cloth that women in the villages wear over their skirts. It keeps the dust and dirt off their clothes.

Women wearing trousers—let alone jeans—is still a pretty uncommon sight in the villages. And we didn’t want to offend, so we wore chitenjes on the first mobile clinic. But several Malawians told us that times were changing and that at any rate, people understood that American women dress differently. So on the next mobile clinic both Eileen and I wore trousers.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

And Then There Were Two

Katherine left as planned today for the U.S. She’s taking the videocamera, recorded tapes and several backup DVDs with her. I had thought of holding on to the videocamera for the rest of the trip but finally decided it is just too much equipment to lug around and be responsible for—along with audio and still camera. The lesson here: if you’re working on your own you have to decided either to do (a) video or (b) stills plus audio, but not both.

Each is a different medium with different requirements. I’m still moving the videocamera too much when I shoot. Still not getting enough B-roll—the shots that you interweave into an interview to cover breaks in the conversation.

But it’s all a learning process—and that’s been the most fun part of all.

Electricity, Satellite Dishes and Cell Phones



How electricity, satellite dishes and cell phones are changing Africa.

Eileen can hardly believe I took this photo. Where's the action? The drama? The human beings?

But I wanted to show how quickly some things are changing in Embangweni, Malawi.

Electricity came to Embangweni Mission Hospital in 2001. Satellite dishes were available starting in 2003 and the two big cell towers (you can see only one of them) arrived earlier this year. The improved communications have made a huge difference in the hospital's ability to network with other health care facilities, contact suppliers, donors, locate that ever-elusive diesel fuel.

Junior Nyirongo, Embangweni's whiz computer person, is now figuring out how to connect to the internet through the cell phone network. Expensive but another link to the world at large.

I promise I'll post some more people-oriented photos soon. But couldn't resist this one. Quite a contrast with the photo of a woman being taken home from the hospital in an ox cart.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

The Sounds of Success

23 July, Wednesday

A welcome sound from female ward—laughter. That means nine-year-old Miriam is really coming along fine. She was admitted a few days before we arrived at the end of June with second degree burns across her abdomen. She was trying to warm herself by the fire at home and her dress caught fire. For the past several weeks she has been lying in bed with a kind of cradle holding the blanket over her wound.

I've watched the nurses cleaning the wound on several occasions. No sign of infection in all this time. Looks like she'll be heading home next week. Would have gone sooner but her family lives so far away that it would have been difficult for them to get to a health center three times a week to change dressings.

(NB: This post was written on site in rural northern Malawi and posted now that I again have internet access.)

An Ox Cart Ride Home




21 July Monday

Watched as an elderly woman was discharged this afternoon and loaded into a waiting ox cart for the ride home.

You can hardly see her in this photo. She's lying down behind the seated woman. The family was eager for me to take the photo. They were quite pleased with the results on the digital playback. Perhaps also glad to know someone is paying attention?

Other random observations:

The hospital doesn't send ambulances out at night anymore as there have been a couple of attempted hijackings.

There's a guardian with every patient except in the labor ward. Too many grandmothers were giving their daughters or daughters-in-law a powerful traditional medicine to induce contractions and it was leading to many instances of ruptured uteruses.

(NB: This post was written on site in rural northern Malawi and posted now that I again have internet access.)

A Visit to Thoza

18 July Friday

Katherine and I went with the mobile clinic today to Thoza—about 9 km away. Eileen stayed behind to take some more photographs at the hospital. I took a few photos in Thoza and then had lunch with Mary and Lupenga Mphande. He is a professor of African studies at Ohio State. Small world.

Been thinking a lot about what I hope to get across in the pieces I produce when I get back home. What are the most important points? Which the most important assumptions to puncture?

Keeping coming back to the idea of how easy it is as an American to assume that there is nothing here; how easily my own focus is drawn to what is missing from Embangweni as opposed to what is here. (Although given my experience at Kamuzu Central, must admit that I checked for soap when I first arrived at Embangweni and was happy to see it everywhere.)

Points I want to keep in mind: There are structures in place. People here know what's missing but typically don't get asked for their input. There are no quick fixes. Solutions have to be integrated. Relationships matter. You have to show you care (both for patients and staff).

Along those lines, you don't just plop a family planning program into a community without also providing for the basic health needs of that community. Otherwise, what is the message you're trying to get across? We're afraid you're going to have too many children?

(NB: This post was written on site in rural northern Malawi and posted now that I again have internet access.)

A Fall From a Bicycle

16 July, Wednesday

Sixteen-year-old boy today came in with a badly broken arm. He looked about 12--stunting due to longterm lack of food.

The story was that he fell off a bicycle on his way to the hospital to beg for food. Both parents are dead. He is living with his elderly grandmother (although it was an elderly man who was there with him).

Both radius and ulna badly broken. He needs pins to set it right—which cannot be done at Embangweni. So Catherine Ndolo accompanied him in the ambulance on the way to Mzimbe. Then Lindsay Kamanga got on the phone to call to Mzimbe to organize a guardian for him there—to make sure he gets what he needs while in the hospital.

Was impressed by the care with which everyone treated this young man. Eileen got some great photos of Catherine Ndolo escorting the boy to the ambulance.

(NB: This post was written on site in rural northern Malawi and posted now that I again have internet access.)


A Policeman Calls At Dinner

15 July, Tuesday

Left at 7:30 AM with Wezi to go to Lilongwe to pick up Katherine Bates, who is helping with video equipment. We gave a ride to the wife and child of a local police officer.
Funny, when Wezi came to dinner table last night with a police officer in tow, Eileen thought I was going to get arrested. After it became clear he was just asking for a ride for his family, Eileen let everyone know what she had feared and we all laughed.

Reached Dae-Yang Luke Hospital at 11 AM, where I was scheduled to interview Dr. Douglas Lungu, the hospital director. But the operation he was performing took longer than he suspected so didn't get to talk with him until after 1 PM. Very good interview, if brief. Would like to schedule another. Alas, the only room available was an empty library, so there was a lot of echoing boom in the audio. Left at 1:40 PM in order to be at airport for Katherine's flight.

She arrived with no problem and we took off back to Embangweni after first using the bathroom at the airport. Stopped in Kasungu to stock up on water and some snacks. Made it to Jenda just before the sun set. Wezi showed us how close we were to Zambia—just the tree line to the left of the road.

Beautiful fast sunset as we traveled on the dirt road from Jenda. Wezi drove slowly as it was getting dark. Stopped and was surrounded by three herds of cattle on the way. They were being driven (on foot) to Lilongwe. Wezi explained that the herders would drive the cattle for about 30 km or so, then rest, then another 30 km or so. They will probably arrive on Saturday or Sunday.

Hallelujah! Eileen's husband Mike figured out how to text my Malawian cell phone on Skype. Received the first message on the way back from Lilongwe. I can't reply to his Skype messages but I can text his mobile phone so now we have two-way communication with the U.S.

(NB: This post was written on site in rural northern Malawi and posted now that I again have internet access.)

Sad News at Morning Report

14 July

Learned during morning report this morning that 12-year old Charity died at 3:30 this morning. She had cryptococcal meningitis and had been on anti-AIDS medication since February. First her father, then her mother died. She was admitted on June 24 and was responding to the meningitis medication but she also had chicken pox and Kaposi's and that's probably what overwhelmed her. Easy to believe that without her mother it was just harder for her to get proper care—particularly with the follow-through on ARV therapy.

Then there's the fact that she was started so late. Most of the deaths during treatment occur during the first three-to-six months; there just hasn't been enough time for the drugs to work.

At least she was comfortable. I also learned a little more about the community that develops on the ward among the patients and guardians. The woman in the bed next to Charity was from Zambia and had no guardian of her own. However she spoke English and so looked out for Charity and explained things to Charity's grandmother. Wonder if the Zambian was perhaps the same age as Charity's mom—if that's why Charity seemed less anxious whenever the Zambian woman spoke with her?

Spent much of the morning in the maternity ward with Godfrey Mdzudzuma, 32, one of four male nurses currently at Embangweni. He started off as a driver but his wife had a heart-to-heart with him about the opportunities for drivers—who are quite mobile—to have multiple girlfriends and all the risks that entails. So together they decided that he should become a nurse instead, find a place where they could both work since she is also a nurse.

Currently Godfrey's wife works at a different hospital but it looks like she'll be transferring to Embangweni in a few months. She has already given her notice.

Godfrey and Madlitso Chosalawa, another male nurse, were helping to orient Jane Chibaka, who just arrived and is on loan for a month from Ekwendeni Hospital. They spent the morning removing caesarean section sutures (no forceps to hold the sutures, Godfrey pointed out. He had to use his gloved fingers) and checking to see if some of the new moms and babies were ready to be discharged and sending them on their way after some brief education on what signs and symptoms should bring them back to the hospital right away.

Then I checked in with Lindsay Kamanga, the hospital administrator to get some more facts and figures about the place. They have between 4,500 and 5000 admissions to the hospital each year and see more than 15,000 patients in the four health centers. The operating budget for entire Embangweni health system for fiscal year 2008-2009 is 90,592,434.96 Malawian Kwacha, which works out to just over $647,000 a year. But this seems like an aspirational budget since more than a third of the income is from donations, which can fluctuate.

Just under 10% of the income comes from fees charged to patients. Mrs. K estimates that about a third of patients pay for their services, sometimes less. To give a few examples, the fee for an evacuation after miscarriage is 5000 kwacha ($35.71), for sepsis is 1745 kwacha ($12.46) and for a course of malaria treatment in the hospital is 1710 kwacha ($12.21)—although "LA" is provided free of charge by the government. LA turns out to be Co-Artem, made by Novartis.

The locum budget for the month of April was 269,529 MK for six senior nurses and 134,764.50 MK for three junior nurses, giving a total of 487,293.50 MK or $3,480. I have heard from several others that the locum pay is 800 kwacha per shift (about $5.70). (Hiring locum means hiring a nurse or clinical officer who is off-duty or on vacation to fill in.)

(NB: This post was written on site in rural northern Malawi and posted now that I again have internet access.)

A Scramble For Life-Saving Diesel

13 July, Sunday

Second day without electricity. Embangweni Hospital is running low on diesel because the generator has been running non-stop for two days.

There is a patient with pneumonia on the male ward who is depending on an oxygen concentrator, which does exactly what its name implies—it takes available oxygen out of the surrounding air and concentrates it to a higher degree for a patient to breathe. But that takes lots of electricity—hence the need for the generator to run even during the day.

Lindsay Kamanga (the hospital administrator) skipped church this morning in order to organize the siphoning of diesel from several hospital vehicles to run the generator. With the immediate crisis under control, she got on the phone to find out which of the surrounding towns might have diesel. The closest is Mzuzu--about two hours away across dirt and tarmac roads--and so she has sent a driver with a truck and a check to stock up. (She also commandeered Martha's car, which has a full tank, to serve as an ambulance.)

Which do you focus on? The scramble for diesel, the length of the power outage or the fact that the hospital staff figured out a way to keep the generator going, to keep someone alive who would have surely died otherwise for lack of fuel?

The point is to survive.

Related post: Arrival in Embangweni

(NB: This post was written on site in rural northern Malawi and posted now that I again have internet access.)